Over the past week, some readers have informed us that they are having trouble troubleshooting coolant combustion problems. If you are losing coolant but not seeing leaks, there may be several parts to blame. This could be a damaged cylinder head gasket, a broken head, damaged cylinder bores, or a leak in the manifold. It could also be a hydraulic lock. August 3, 2020
Thanks for your understanding.
I already knew it wasn’t.
Wow. Just wow. I think I understand how you got to what you did.
The time it takes to see a pressure drop is directly related to the amount of air trapped between the valve and the engine cylinder. Therefore, getting an acceptable digital test result is not good. But it would be nice to know where the leak is happening,
IF you can scare him off with
. For this reason, I use full store air pressure when I need to see where a leak is occurring.
No, it is not.
You are filling in coolant.
You haven’t completed the correct test yet.
You can, of course. Almost anything is possible.
This is certainly not a common Honda mistake.
Not up to date. Not here.
Your assumption of the “majority” is absolutely wrong. I dare say this is an absolute rarity these days, especially when using MLS cylinder head gaskets.
Loss of compression is associated with only one type of error, and it shouldabout being a big mistake.
You cannot rely solely on the compression test for this. The compression test only checks one thing: compression. And you still have a lot.
The head gasket can fail in several ways (a dozen or more). It must isolate at least 5 different areas from each other.
Testing requires knowledge of various testing methods that you can use to fix each of the possible errors.
Then you need to select the appropriate tests that will identify the observed and suspected fault.
It turns out a wet spark plug with coolant.
Do you have
Leakage of coolant into the cylinder.
Concentrate on this.
Pressurize the cooling system to check for a leak.
Observe safety regulations, never open the cover of the pressurized cooler!
Start the engine at operating temperature (important)
Place a pressure gauge over the radiator and bleed to 16 or any other maximum safe pressure.
Remove the caps.
The pressure naturally decreases as the engine cools. Maintain discharge pressure when you need to find coolant in the cylinder.
Now take the endoscope ($$$) to see where the fluid is going, or remove it from your head to see why.
There is a “very likely” answer and there is an “unlikely” one.
Choose wisely, grasshopper.
/ Occam’s Razor
I think I understand how you can do this.
Due to the lack of a leak tester
I connected a shut-off valve and a pressure gauge to the cylinder in that order. Open the valve and leave 100 psi in the cylinder, then close the valve that is trapping air. It took 18 minutes to lose 5 psi which means nothing is happening.
I have tested and as per specification the # 1 cylinder is in good condition.
Maybe the head has been moved away from the coolant line tovalve guide? I think this is the only way that coolant can flow out of the compression range and still enter the cylinder without being in oil.
Or maybe I am completely wrong and I didn’t think that the coolant could get inside any other way than a normally cracked block / head
or a cylinder head gasket, which is most commonly seen in compression testing.
Reasons For Loss Of Coolant
While coolant leak doesn’t seem like a big deal compared to other problems in your car, such as engine replacement or transmission misfires, it can create a dangerous situation for your car. … … Without the correct amount of coolant, your car can overheat and damage the engine. This shows that the loss of coolant is a problem that needs to be addressed as quickly as possible.
Knowing the signs of a coolant leak can help prevent this problem from occurring in your vehicle .
How To Fix A Coolant Leak In A Car